The motto at this recently opened deli market could be “Veni, Vidi, Veggie,” and even meat-eaters are discovering its delicious offerings.

By Elizabeth Hunter | Photos by Shannon Christine Photo

There is no wrong answer if Midtown Vegan Deli and Market owner Tanya Barnett asks, “Are you vegan?” If you are, this is no doubt a return visit. If you’re a meat-eater dropping in to expand your culinary horizons or dismiss your conceptions of vegan food … all the better. Barnett loves to delight the believers and skeptics alike.

You’ve likely cruised by the spot formerly occupied by Feig’s, then Eli’s Deli, at 5th Street and Rosemont, which sat empty through the pandemic. A real estate agent and restaurateur, Barnett grew up in the neighborhood, attending Sewell Elementary and Rincon High School. She had eyed the sweet little business spot on 5th and was determined to fulfill a dream of opening a vegan deli and market. The plant-based diet, which eschews all animal products, is a lifestyle that has made her feel healthier and helped her to tacitly advocate on behalf of animals.

“I never ate a lot of meat but I was definitely a foodie,” reveals Barnett. “I started doing a deep dive, learning about animal agriculture, factory farming and climate dysfunction, and what a huge impact your diet has on all those things. I started watching documentaries and learning about health and wellness and how a whole-food, plantbased diet reverses inflammatory illness. I didn’t originally have any vegan friends so I was able to go on my own journey.” Barnett ordered meals from “Purple Carrot” and watched vegan YouTube channels. Over a period of months, she transitioned to a completely vegan diet. “I realized it felt so good to me. I was really at peace with myself and my life choices,” she adds. “It was an easy transition because I did it at my own pace.”

As a real estate agent, Barnett specializes in residential, not commercial properties.

The deli, “needed a lot of love,” she reflects, “but I was really set on this space. I was determined because I really wanted the concept to be a deli and a market, and it lent itself to that with shelves and coolers. I wanted a one-stop shop. So, for example, if a meat-eater comes in and tries a sandwich and likes it, she can do a little shopping before she leaves and then get excited about cooking vegan food at home.”

Although Barnett calls this undertaking “the hardest thing I’ve ever done,” the impressive results speak for themselves. Platinum planked floors echo the light-colored ceiling, making the store feel open and bright. Nine or so small tables that accommodate four are each surrounded by bouncy molded chairs. Solo diners enjoy a faux-marble slab counter surrounded by tall stools. A Jane Goodall quote wraps itself around the top of the western wall: “You cannot get through a single day without having an impact on the world around you. What you do makes a difference, and you have to decide what kind of a difference you want to make.”

The Midtown Vegan Deli doesn’t feature an open kitchen — it showcases a walk-thru kitchen. Patrons have to amble through the immaculate bustling kitchen to get to the restroom.

Approach the display case to peruse scallop-edged vessels filled with fresh-made vegan salads. On a recent visit, the options included Potato Salad — toothsome cubes tossed in mellow vegan mayo, spiked with smokey cumin; Sumac (a lemony Middle Eastern spice) Two Bean Salad with black and garbanzo beans; and Greek Pasta Salad — al dente bowties, buttery chickpeas and salty faux feta, made crunchy with onions and celery.

Chocolate chip cookies, brownies, moist blocks of banana chocolate chip loaf, fresh muffins and cinnamon pecan coffee cake are enclosed in a dome atop the display case, while inside, slices of berry faux cheesecake and Mexican chocolate wedding cake create temptation. “I have a bunch of employees who are great at making certain bakery items, but line cook Ruth has a special talent for baking,” Barnett reveals. “Even if I don’t plan on coming in on that day, when I hear Ruth has made an incredible new creation I have to come in and try it.” Midtown soon will take orders for Ruth’s whole cheesecakes, cupcakes and other wicked vegan indulgences.

Midtown serves breakfasts all day. Favorites include the T-Town Breakfast Burrito: savory scrambled tofu and Just Egg with potatoes,

green chiles, “Cheddah,” and your choice of soyrizo or sausage, wrapped in a fresh tortilla.

And the Simple Sammy — a healthy vegan rift on the Egg McMuffin. “Regulars go wild and add all sorts of extras to make it their own.

I have a couple who come by twice a week to pick up Simple Sammies and tots for takehome dinners.” Another oft ordered item is Avo-Toast: buttery avocado, diced tomatoes and nutrient-dense micro greens on toast with a zig-zag of balsamic glaze.

A dozen sandwiches are made to order, boasting plant-based meats, tempeh or seitan (wheat-meat), vegan cheeses, house-made sauces and fresh fixings. The BLT features grilled tempeh bacon contrasting the sweet neutrality of ripe tomatoes and romaine. The Philly Cheese Steak starts on a fresh roll with a choice of Unreal Deli Steak or soy-based chicken grilled with onions and crowned with melty provolone. Tanya’s personal fave is the Buffalo Chicken Sandwich: a spicy faux chicken patty, tempura battered and deep fried with pickles, lettuce, Frank’s Buffalo sauce and house-made ranch on a brioche bun.

The Tuno Melt includes garbanzo-based “tuna,” onion and celery, enrobed in vegan mayo and grilled with faux cheddar. The Game-Changer Grilled Cheese is comprised of two types of vegan cheese, chopped artichoke hearts and, if you do like Tanya does, jalapeños, on grilled sourdough bread.

Burger choices are not easy to make. “I like to ask people whether they’re vegan or not when they order because I’ll direct them differently depending on their answer,” says Barrett.

“A lot of times when a meat-eater comes in looking to explore vegan food, I recommend the burger because it’s the closest thing to what they’re used to eating and it’s a great way to impress them and win them over. We carry Beyond Meat patties, which taste just like the real thing, as well as our house-made black bean and mushroom patties for those who shy away from faux meats.”

There are specials, as well, and Barnett says, “Our Instagram and Facebook pages are the best ways to keep an eye on what we’re doing because we change our specials often.”

The Market at Midtown features built-in coolers chock-full of hard-to-find, premium and popular vegan items including brands like Tofurkey, Violife, GoodPlant, Mia, Be Leaf Vegan Drumsticks, and in the freezer, Beyond Meat Burgers, Meatballs and Sausage. You’ll also find vegan butter and Arizona local vegan cheeses.

The wall opposite the coolers offers culinary essentials. “We have chips, water, cereal — all the basic necessities, but we also have the fun vegan-centric things that people will drive here just to get. The ‘Outstanding Cheese Balls’ are amazing and somehow fortified with vitamins!” There also are gluten-free gummies, hearty canned soups, Bob’s Red Mill products, Tucson local High Desert Hot Sauces and lots more.

“I’d say we have a big vegan-friendly community,” Barnett concludes. “We have a lot of people who are starting to understand that the more vegan meals you eat, the better it is for the planet and the animals. We all play our own different part in affecting change. I lead with food because I feel like that can make a huge difference if people change how they see vegan food. We can all make a difference.” TL

Midtown Vegan Deli and Market, 5071 E. 5th St.; (520) 849-5553; MidtownVeganDeli.com; Hours: Mon-Sat, 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun, 10 a.m.

-4 p.m.